I Love Aveiro | Agora Aveiro

Beira-Mar

The beginning is fictional but traced by the sea.

The ria followed its path, and in Aveiro decided to stay.

It has created, without separation, populations thirsty for the sea. It was born, North of the main channel of the Ria de Aveiro, the Beira-Mar neighbourhood in the Parish of Vera Cruz. To the South of the channel, the parish of Glória springs up. Two populations and one rivalry that in no way upsets and in everything appeases. One, to the North, sails through the eternity of the sea mixed with the sun and devotes its day to the salt and to the ria. These are called ‘Cagaréus’. Another, to the South, sows the field and the vegetable gardens, goes to the market for onions, and goes door to door. These are called ‘Ceboleiros’. Cagaréus, as they’ll be remembered, were ‘marnotos’, fishermen or ‘moliceiros’ accompanied by their boats, one of them the ‘bateira’. The curious name of cagaréus comes from the aft of the boat, used, in the pinch of the moment, for the needs of the occupants.

The neighbourhood’s past is painted tile by tile by the inhabitants who grew up there and remain loyal to it. It contrasts with the present through memories, in festival colours, reawakening a time when the younger ones were learning to swim in the ria that they would one day come to explore. Layered clothes decorated the streets where familiarity is tradition and the strange, an apparition. Sunny houses, eternal in comparison, had the keys on the door as an extended invite, even to the Saints on their heart. And they were not just a few, the Saints of the region. They deserved festive calendars in their adoration. Requests for protection, promises, and convictions. São Gonçalinho has had its name celebrated since 1875, in festivities that last over an extended weekend, the closest from January 10th. São Bartolomeu, when set free from his chapel on August 24th, wanders freely through the street of Beira-Mar, making the wind pass by, which in Aveiro couldn’t be missing.

As it could be expected and in no way blame, such a zone has become a popular place to visit. The present has everything to tell, everything to unveil. Perhaps the thirst for the sea will not change at all and to this emblematic neighbourhood the people are destined to stop by.

Cagaréus and Ceboleiros

Now separated by a channel, in ancient times by a stone wall. Cagaréus and Ceboleiros. It is unclear how far back we have to go to reach the origin of such designations, but the motive... that, is widely known.

Cagaréus, born in the old parish of Vera Cruz, north of the main channel of Ria, in the Beira-Mar neighbourhood. Intimately connected to the sea and the bourgeoisie. Its name comes from the combination of the words “Cagar à ré”, because, in times of physiological stress, it was at the aft of the boat that the relief came. There were 3 boats, each with its own function. The mercantel, a transportation boat, both for passengers and cargo, is often confused by those who are not locals with the ‘moliceiro’, an ex-libris of ria. They are distinguished by their size and the shape of their prow. The first, larger in size, with a slightly curved prow that ends in a beak; the second has a high and curved prow and stern. In the moliceiro, the purest in its intended activity - to catch the moliço, the exuberant and sometimes rough decorative panels are characteristic. The bateiras, with various functions, from cockle fishing, to transport the fisheries, people and pastures, are embroidered in black. Depending on their profession, which is like saying, the boat they sailed on, they could have different designations. Moliceiro, as the boat attributed to it, was the one that collected the moliço or junco. Fisherman, as the name suggests, is responsible for fishing. Marnotos, nowadays less abundant, are responsible for the collection of salt and may use the mercantel to transport it.

The Ceboleiros had the field, in the noblest part of town. Next to the old temple of São Miguel, where today stands the Praça da República, used to be held the Mercado de Cebolas, a place where farmers used to trade.

The rivalry marks its history. Dating someone from the other side of the bridge was a motive for a brawl. And in times of festivities, comparisons were inevitable. At the time when there was only one float for the two margins, the procession took place on different days. It is said that one year, at the time of the Procissão do Senhor dos Passos, one of the parishes refused to hand over the float. The result of such rivalry, accentuated by what had happened, was a violent argument that has been engraved in the memory of the inhabitants.

With the passing of time and the joining of the parishes, the rivalry has softened. But a true local from Aveiro, is either cagaréu or ceboleiro.

Chapel of S. Bartolomeu

When the story is not well known, the imagination does the rest. If the fears and uncertainties are combined with creativity to clear the fog and find explanations that comfort us, traditions, devotions, or peculiar stories will emerge, in this case, behind a discreet chapel.

The simple chapel of S. Bartolomeu, lost in the streets of the Beira-Mar neighbourhood, apparently answers several questions that assail both those who are passing through and those who stay in Aveiro. If you’ve always looked for someone to complain to about not being able to happen an umbrella in this city or about the wind offering a hairstyle you didn’t ask for, you’re reading the right story. Modest on the outside, dressed in white but not entirely devoid of colour, the faint hint of blue in the hemispherical dome, the circular plan - this is how anyone who wanders along the S. Roque canal knows it.

Above the rectangular doorway, the name of the person who had it built in 1568, André Dias Caldeira, is engraved. Although it is neither the oldest nor the most popular chapel in Aveiro, it is one of the least altered. There is no consensus about its origins, although some sources place it in the period when D. Manuel forced the Jews to convert and they continued to pray in secret.

The Chapel of S. Bartolomeu only opens its doors once a year. For the irresistibly curious, here is a description of its interior contrasting with the modesty of the exterior: inside, an altar inhabited by three saints is hidden. These are unconventionally dressed in bright colours, which was neither common nor appreciated in sacred art. However, in Aveiro we are already used to this festival of colours, to these saints who are seen as an excuse to party. Among the saint-festivals represented is S. João Batista, connected to the work cycles of the marnotos and the preparation of the saltpans, N. Senhora do Ó and, finally, S. Bartolomeu. This is one peculiar saint. It is said not much was known about him and, once again, where not much is known the imagination does the rest. S. Bartolomeu was said to be discreet but he made a point of saying what he thought. We find him represented with a dagger, for legend has it that he died skinned alive as a martyr. His voice was also peculiar. S. Bartolomeu had a voice that was described as strange and was also gifted with the ability to “cooperate with the other side”.

It is then time to open the chapel. It is said that the “young man”, the devil, is released on the 24th of August, S. Bartolomeu’s day, and wanders freely in the Beira-Mar neighbourhood. This is due to the capacity that only S. Bartolomeu has to dominate him and, on this day, grant his release to prevent him from rebelling because he is tied to his feet all year round.

The powers of S. Bartolomeu do not end here. For the distracted souls and flying heads who have lost something, you have nothing to fear. There is a tradition that says that it is enough to throw, during the night, black coins near the chapel of S. Bartolomeu and he will return what is lost.

And, finally, the unveiling of the reason why Aveiro is so windy. The secret lives in the chapel of S. Bartolomeu. The next time you are about to take off as you cross the avenue, you will know that the chapel’s door is open when they shouldn’t be. The young boy in chains will be running along the shore. “The wind is the devil’s work”. The reason may be this or it may be that the neightbourhood’s streets are oriented northwards to ventilate the houses from the smell of the sea.

The most peculiar traditions of the modest and forgotten streets reveal the residents’ way of life, what they believe and what led them to believe.

The Hanging of Clothes

The Beira-Mar region is remembered by many in different ways. Whether it is for the disagreements between Marnotos and Ceboleiros, or for its colourful houses.

Its residents remember it as a sunny place. They say that, at that time, there being no other way of drying their clothes, but also driven by the favourable weather, they would hang their clothes on the clotheslines of their windows. This habit, still partially present nowadays, leaves the streets with many different patches of colour, giving them new life, turning them into a unique scenery.

In this context, Mr. Evaristo appears. Mr. Evaristo, remembered as head of the town hall and fiscal officer at the time, didn't like to see the picturesque houses of the typical neighbourhood covered by the hanging clothes. For this reason, and because he had such power, he fined the residents who had their clothes hanging out at the windows. But it wasn’t only this habit that was reprimanded by Mr. Evaristo. The residents were also not allowed to shake the rugs at the windows.

This comical character still pulled some pranks as revenge for disobedience. Among them, he would take the clothes off the clothesline, knot them and soak them.

In return, the residents worked out a solution to escape the fine. The first resident to spot Mr. Evaristo warned the others so that they could collect their clothes, without him seeing them. This trick still saved a few residents a few bucks.

The clothes on the windows is a sign that cagaréus still inhabit the city.

Walls of Aveiro

This story dates back to the 15th century. After a fire that occured at the beginning of this century, the Infante D. Pedro ordered the construction of a wall. In reality, it was more of an honorary wall, for protection it would not serve given the simplicity of the construction. Only imposing in the gates, towers and in the portion facing the Ribeira do côjo, the old designation for quay, due to the need of security. In the remaining sections, it resembled a simple wall. It is said that the reason for its construction was vanity and pride for the real bourgeois village that Aveiro was at the time.

Although not consensual, it is claimed that there were eight gates in this wall: of Vila, of Sol, of Campo, of Côjo, of Ribeira, of Alboi, of Rabães, and of Vagos. The gates of Vila, Ribeira and Vagos, are the most important, had a double door that created a solemn atrium.

The duration of the construction work no one knows for sure. The start was in August 1418. More than 30 years later, it is said the construction was not completed. Before the edification, there was only one Parish, the Parish of S. Miguel. Later, besides this one which would be the noblest, the Parish of Espirito Santo was created to the South and, outside the wall, the Parish of Vera-Cruz and of N. Sra. Da Apresentação. The latter together formed the Vila Nova, located in the North, known as the fishermen’s area. In S. Miguel, the residents were called “Ceboleiros”, while those of the Vila Nova were called “Cagaréus”.

Due to the crisis in Barra de Aveiro, the wall stopped being repaired and little by little its stones started falling down. But this was not its end. Some of them were used at construction work in Barra, for the construction of the jetties. This work, currently still technically very demanding, would have been quite challenging at the time. Six years were needed for its conclusion and an exorbitant amount of manpower. After a period of great economic and social crisis, the reopening of Barra revitalised the region of Aveiro.

Returning to the stones of the old wall, they were also used for the construction of the former Liceu José Estevão, now the Escola Secundária Homem Cristo, and for the walls of the Ria channels. The inhabitants also took advantage of them, using them to repair their houses.

Later, when the temple of S. Miguel was demolished, only two Parishes remained, Vera-Cruz and N. Sra. Da Glória. Separated by a canal and with some rivalry between them, the designations remained, cagaréus and ceboleiros respectively... but that’s another story.

From the walls of Aveiro, today there is no glimpse, but its stones remain in the buildings of Aveiro. Where exactly? Nobody knows.

S. Gonçalinho

In the Beira-Mar neighbourhood, if it were possible, it was very likely that the saints would be invited to give their opinion on whether the dinner needed more seasoning. They would be invited to be present at anniversaries, to water the potted plants that share balcony space with cats and, who knows, even to watch the Beira-Mar games, if they liked football. Here the saints are family, they are addressed by “you”. It is in the union between the sacred and the profane, somewhere between the human and the divine, that we find the traditions of the festivities in honour of S. Gonçalinho. In essence, they are more like a big neighbourhood party.

It may be sacrilegious and even dangerous to say that, after all, S. Gonçalinho, “our boy”, is not from Aveiro nor did he pass through here. Many fervently defend the contrary, he “passed, yes sir!” through this town. Born in S. Salvador de Tagilde, county of Guimarães, lived in the second half of the 13th century in Amarante. The Dominican monk chose to lead a life of eremitism and mendicancy. He went on a pilgrimage to Rome and Jerusalem and returned to his origins without possessions. He died on January 10th, now the day of S. Gonçalinho.

To be a saint you need a miracle and, apparently, a lot of talks. It is said that it was thanks to this virtue that he managed to find the funds to perform one of his miracles, the construction of the bridge of Amarante, over the Tâmega River. S. Gonçalinho is represented with a cane that, according to legend, converts rocks into wine or water when touched. The miracle of the fish is also attributed to him. It is reported the prodigy of having managed to convince the fish to come out of the water to be caught and eaten. This saint is asked for everything, from the cure of physical illnesses to the solution of problems of the heart. But don’t take advantage “of the boy”, because he is vindictive.

Keeping S. Gonçalinho happy, let's be honest, it's a sweet effort. Memory claims that festivities in his honour have been taking place since 1875, although the written record refers to their occurrence since 1935. Organized by the Mordomia de São Gonçalinho, they last for an extended weekend, the nearest to January 10th.

In these celebrations, paying promises is synonymous with celebration. Sweet promises covered in sugar syrup are paid, called ‘cavacas’, which are thrown from the top of the chapel. It rains tons of cavacas and some devotees even throw their weight in cavacas. Those at the top see down below a sea of umbrellas and nets that move with the movements of cavacas. One can see, among the smiles, those who decide to wear a helmet, because the cavacas that are thrown, unlike those found in pastry shops throughout the year, are hard and reach considerable speed.

Despite the controversy, there are those who defend that S. Gonçalinho did indeed pass through Aveiro and that, during his stay, he would throw bread to those isolated on islands when touched by the plague and from then until today, the story has materialised into something sweeter.

Performed by the butlers, at night inside the chapel, after moving the benches away from the path, the ‘Dança dos mancos’ (dance of the lame) takes place. In this one, the butlers simulate that they are unbalanced, sing and dance, wobbling as if they have pain or bone problems. In fact, they are asking for early protection from S. Gonçalinho, who also cures bone diseases. After the miracle of healing, the devotees offer their canes to the saint.

“A Touch of Strangeness”

– a story of Agnes

I had this idea that I should try to live abroad for some time, to push me out of my comfort zone. In 2010, I arrived at Aveiro for what I thought would be 6 months. Yet, I'm still here.

Aveiro is a fascinating little town. Actually, a big town by Latvian standards. There's a beautiful charm to it, with the canals and the boats with artistic touches that perfectly give some character to the entire scene, that make the centre come alive while making it romantic and colourful.

Aveiro even has a creepy side because, never, in my life, have I seen a place where a shopping mall was next to a cemetery. At sundown, those mausoleums would be the perfect scenario to shoot scary movie scenes.

The University of Aveiro is still my favourite place to study. It has the most beautiful, I would even say spiritual library. The view to the Ria de Aveiro and the sunlight make it magical. It’s also where I met my husband. I assumed I would go back to Latvia to finish my studies, and our relationship would eventually end. Well, it didn’t work that way. He’s the reason I came back to Aveiro 3 years later.

This time, leaving my life in Latvia behind was very difficult. Heartbreaking even, when I think about how hard it was for my family to let me go. Knowing that I was leaving my homeland for what I knew, deep down, might be for a lifetime, I started to see Aveiro with different eyes. Maybe more critical, more realistic. This was no longer a 6-month fling. Every day, there are instances and cultural differences, in all areas, that make me smile and drive me crazy. I mean, I still find it odd when 3 people in the same room are called João.

I have always felt welcomed, but the feeling that I'm a foreigner never left me. It is hard to describe, but there are these unwritten rules and unexplainable gestures, words and attitudes that remind me that I'm not Portuguese.

But there are so many things I am happy about here. The first one, the number of sunny days. I think I smile more here than in Latvia because of the sun. The ocean does not stop to amaze me. My crush is Costa Nova, with its pyjama houses, so cute, so unique. I enjoy the sunny days with giant waves in the Spring and Autumn when there are fewer people on the beach. I love the coffee and the smell that wafts from the bakeries when you're passing by.

I believe the Portuguese are one of the most open and tolerant people in the world. And in general, love kids. I look away for a second and my 2-year-old is taking things off the shelves at the supermarket and putting them on the floor. A lady just patiently puts them back. I haven't even mentioned the elderly, ready to help my child have fun with the mess she created.

There have been many situations where I learned valuable lessons and reevaluated myself and my attitude. But I still have to remind myself to take things easy.

When somebody asks if I see myself living in Aveiro for the rest of my life, I always say I don't. That's how I feel, but there is a high probability that I will. Aveiro is a pleasant place to be at, and it has a particularly special place in my heart.

“The Transgression of Thinking”

– a story of Ahmad

When the war in Syria started in 2011, I was 16 years old and ready to become a revolutionary. The uprising against President Bashar al-Assad had gradually turned into a full-scale civil war, and my father was looking for a way to get me out of our country with his hands and feet. And he succeeded. He found a way for me to study in Aveiro. I had to take it because it was either that or move to study in the city of Homs, where the war was well on its way. It was a better idea to travel 5000 kms and study in Portugal then one hour away at Homs.

I lived in the capital, which was the safest place to be. As the revolution was starting, I had a vision of change. I was involved in it the only way I could, on a rather small scale. I don't actually see myself as someone who did much when there were people who acted as true heroes. I believed that something could be done, I had ideas. Which was a big enough crime.

The last year I lived in Syria was the most amazing of my life. There was a group willing to change the system. I connected with amazing people, we watched movies, talked, accepted each other's ideas. There was some hope. But the pressure, uncertainties and fears were growing stronger. Then most of them left. The days were going by, and hope kept fading. People simply started fleeing Syria. At that point, it was clear to me that when it came to the Syrian issue, it was something bigger than me, bigger than my generation. My generation was already leaving the country. And if my generation was escaping, there wasn't much that could be done. I gave what I had to give. And it all became hopeless. When the news about the scholarship came, everything changed overnight.

I had never really travelled before. 2015 saw my first flight ever, my one and only destination. I remember Aveiro was foggy when I arrived, my head was much the same. I don't remember the first 2 months, it was all so was confusing, I was so young. Suddenly I slept in a new bed, in a new city, in a new country.

After five years, I have settled in Aveiro. I'm working as a civil engineer in a big company, and I have more Portuguese friends than international ones, but in general, I don't feel like I belong to places. I have feelings and memories about places, and I either love them, or I don't. Most of my memories of Aveiro are adorable. I have been in many cities, but I never felt the same cosiness I get from Aveiro. I have been in other places, and I liked them but, at night, it's here that I love to sleep.

I don't particularly miss anything about Syria. I went back in 2017 and confirmed this. It's not the same country. It changed demographically, and the people on the streets are very different. They have a dead look on their faces. They have no life. Time is irrelevant. It doesn't matter what day it is, what time it is, it's all the same. You wake up, you go get some food, and you are worried. You worry the whole day and the whole night about everything. And this is the middle class. I have no idea how it must be like for poor people.

I've heard from many Portuguese that I am sometimes more Portuguese than Portuguese people. I believe that both the local community and the newcomers need to adapt. I put in the effort to, not only learn the language but to also understand the Portuguese mentality and customs. Eventually, people stopped mentioning my nationality and started to see me as a human being. That's what I always wanted.

“Sneaky Roots Grow Under Night Skies”

– a story of Ayman

I was born and raised in Egypt. In 2001, I decided that it was time to move out of my country to find a better life. So, Canada became my official second home, where I studied and worked.

Time goes by, and sometimes there's something in you that yearns for new adventures. I started to fall in love with the idea of moving to Europe after a couple of trips to Italy, Portugal and Spain. I was determined to move to Southern Europe, where I had felt that people lived to enjoy life, in contrast to the North American concept, where it feels like people live for work and their careers and maybe enjoy life, if they get a chance.

In 2009, I found a position within a 3-year project in Aveiro and decided to take on the challenge and move to Portugal. I assumed I would live here for a couple of years and then either move back to Canada or find another place. MAN! Was I wrong!

It's not easy to move to a country where you don't know the language. That was a first for me. I didn’t know a single word of Portuguese when I arrived in Aveiro. However, Portuguese people really do try, as hard as they can, to have a conversation with you. I have seen it everywhere around Aveiro, even in small shops, with older people, who do not know a word of English. They try and try to get their point to you, in every way they can. I loved this so much. I felt that I was welcomed here. I started meeting Portuguese people and building friendships with many of them. It was lovely.

Aveiro has a unique charm. It's a lovely city with lovely people who always welcome you. You have the beach just a few minutes away by car, and you can enjoy the view of the ocean at any time of the year. You feel like you know everyone around you, and they know you, even those you haven't spoken with yet. For someone from a bigger city like Cairo, sometimes it gets too small. I also like that you can go anywhere in Aveiro on foot. I do not do that! I drive everywhere. Again, the big city boy effect.

The early evenings and calm summer nights are the best. One of my favourite things to do in Aveiro, especially after a long day of work is to sit outside, in one of the many coffee shops/bars and enjoy a lovely refreshing drink while taking in the sunset, or the stars during clear nights.

Over the years, without me noticing, the city grew on me, I grew too, and I became part of Aveiro. I found love here. I met my wife in Aveiro, and we got married in a lovely location out of the city. Living here with my wife and our dog made it easy for Aveiro to become the place I come back to.

I can't say that I will live in Aveiro forever, I believe there are still new adventures for me to conquer, with probably new cities and countries to live in, and I do have two other places I call home. However, definitely, for now, Aveiro is my home.

“Golden Hour”

– a story of Josafat

It was never in my plans to come to Aveiro. But one of my uncles always spoke so highly of the city and the university that I ended up coming here to study Public Administration, the field I care deeply about. It wasn't easy to get here, there are so many requirements and paperwork you have to go through to get a visa. Despite that, everything still felt very sudden. I remember worrying and wondering if I would even like the city. Nowadays, you can hardly get me to leave Aveiro.

I remember people saying how hard it was going to be. I like to confront things head-on, I'm not someone who's afraid of challenges. No matter what, I know I can always find a way to face them and get through to the other side with some air of ease. Which is good, because I had some challenges ahead. I mean, I came from a different country, to live alone, in a city where I knew no one.

Over time I realized that there's more to it, but when I arrived in Aveiro, the first impression I had was that it was a very calm city. My first week in Aveiro was very different than what I was used to, I had nothing to do. So I started to explore and walk around the university's campus. Taking pictures of it made me feel good. Exploring this new world through a lens helped me discover a unique beauty to it. I think it's one of the best and most beautiful in the country. Everything is so close by that it makes life easier for those who live and study here.

Some of my best memories take place either in the main square or with my friends at the student bar. I remember my first dinner with everyone from my degree. Well, I remember part of it. We might have had a bit too much fun. To this day, I still don't know how I managed to wake up on the campus dorms. I didn't even live in the dorms! It was amazing. I also have a song that was written about me that people sing whenever we have dinner together or are hanging out. You might think it's silly, but I really like that. You start to build connections with the city and its people. I'm part of something bigger than me here, it makes me feel special. But I also never forget that I got where I am today, in large part, due to the strength and support of my parents, family, and friends. And I still miss them every day.

Aveiro is a very nice and charming city. And the people here are so warm that it reminds me of Luanda, my hometown. I've met people that I see more like family than solely as friends. I have lived unique experiences, and I am welcomed everywhere I go. These have been the best years of my life.

“The Absolute Beginner”

– a story of Márcia

“Immigrant” never really agreed with me. Some will see it as a bold statement, others as naive. I suspect it comes from my ever-changing beginner's eyes. And you can definitely call me a beginner, but not about change. That's what my entire life has been about, change and adaptation. I’ve been moving and continually discovering new places I would come to call home ever since I was little. I chose to live in Portugal because it felt like home to me.

When I decided to leave my country, I feared that my chances of getting a job were lower, since I was older. Despite that, here I am, pursuing a PhD at the University of Aveiro. I'm doing what I love the most, learning and teaching.

You probably already know that Portugal and Brasil share the same language. We all speak Portuguese, so it's easy for us to understand each other, right? Well, I thought the same. It was only when I got here that I realised just how differently we communicate. I encountered numerous situations in which we were all speaking Portuguese, but our expressions were totally different. This has been a great challenge for me.

From an early age, my beloved father told me how to look at the world as if it were a kaleidoscope of perspectives, so I am used to seeing not only one truth and being aware of the rich and complex world of interpretation. This is how I embrace my experience in Portugal, without preconceptions or misbeliefs about a country and its people. I decided to open my heart and mind and let life find its way.

I never get attached to places, only people. They transform landscapes into smell-colour-sound-taste-scapes. They are my roots, for that, I always feel I am a world citizen experiencing everything as if it was the very first time. I'm not an immigrant, I'm an absolute beginner looking at a white canvas seeking to express the language of love.

“Sea Foam Nostalgia”

– a story of Mariana

In that precious moment I opened my well-travelled umbrella, it was lost. Aveiro, do we really need to have rain and wind at the same time?! Apparently, yes. It was my first day here. I even took a picture to capture my full-of-first-day-excitement-happy face with this blessed rainy-windy reception! However, the street art just outside the train station dazzled me enough to make it better.

My husband and I were seeking a new place to live ever since we got back from California. Planning it in advance, you know? We were actually considering Australia, New Zealand or some other English-speaking country.

It was while we were travelling through Europe that we got to know Lisbon. In some way, it felt a bit like Bahia, our home. Some squares and streets had the same name, and you could also find similarities in the urban aesthetic, because of the connection between Portugal and Brasil. It was starting to feel right. Then, I found a call for a PhD position at the University of Aveiro, precisely in the field of study of my interest. Plus, Aveiro also has my long-term companion, the sea, extremely close. My husband and I love to surf, so we really had to choose a city with amazing waves.

A lot of people advised us not to take such a risk, “Oh why are you leaving your country when you are so well established here?”, “Don’t go, you already have your friends, your job, your roots here!”. We wanted to step out of our comfort zone, we wanted personal growth and new professional challenges.

Without question, the hardest part? Leaving my family. I came alone, my husband had to go back to Brasil to finalize some bureaucracies, to a place where I knew no one. Of course, I spoke and interacted with people all the time, but at the end of the day, I would come home alone. Eventually, I found a church group that welcomed me. They treated me like family, which helped me feel like part of the community.

When you start living in a new country, you have to rebuild and reorganize your life again. From the most basic needs, such as where do I find the cheapest groceries or what do I wear to face this cold, to employment and financial requirements. You need to learn how the health and the educational systems work.

I miss the smell of the sea. I like to go to Costa Nova and Barra, but it’s not the same. In Bahia, you can stay at the beach until the end of the day, laying on your beach towel or swimming in warm waters. I miss that. Here, you have a 5-minute sea-freeze moment and wind and sand flying everywhere. But, if you leave your country carrying your memories as a burden, if you live them as a reminder of the things you left behind, you’ll never be able to embrace your new life to its full extent.

Step-by-step, you build a new you in a new country. Your habits shift. I used to have tapioca all the time, but it's harder to find now, so I save it for special occasions. I used to wear long dresses, now I gravitate towards the clothes that keep me warm. Many aspects of your life have to change. You adapt. For me, the most important thing is to come with an open mind. I'm still discovering the cultural nuances, but I already adore Aveiro.

“Shamelessly Wandering”

– a story of Mina

Hi, I’m Mina and... I’m originally from Iraq.

Yeap, you guessed it, palm trees packed with dates (the fruit), the ancient birthplace of writing, Saddam Hussein, the wars...

Mina in Portuguese can either be a gold mine or a mine mine. Like those that explode. You get the joke, right?

I was born in Iraq, lived in Jordan for a few years, then came to Aveiro, at thirteen (usually called “the sh*t age”). I’ve been living in Aveiro for eleven years, and oh boy, what a life-changing experience it has been.

I still remember the first day of school. I hopped into a new class, in a new country, only knowing how to say “Bom dia” and “Obrigada”. My classmates warmly welcomed me in English, asked me questions here and there, and I felt grateful that they were so sweet to me. We didn’t become friends, though.

The next few years of my adolescence were difficult. And it’s kind of supposed to be, right? You feel misunderstood and crave closeness yet push people away. Especially when learning the language had its ups and downs and communicating with people didn’t come easy for me.

Eventually, the catastrophe was over. Ever so slowly, I was somewhat reborn. The city was different in my eyes. There are trees everywhere, which I adore, hot sunshine and the playful wind that dances with the wisps of your hair. There are the warm, lopsided smiles on people with lopsided hearts, just like me. We smile at each other, and say “Good morning”, “Good evening”, “How are you?”.

Eventually, I found my friends. Some of them are in different cities now, and most of us don’t know where we’ll be or where we’ll go in the future, but it’s okay.

Today I can say: I love Aveiro, honest and shamelessly. I passionately love the park. It’s this refuge where you can walk barefoot on the grass, softly inhale the scent of flowers in the air, admire the beauty of the silver reflection in the water of the lake, and just... be. Your eyes and heart are going to relish the preciousness. If you let them, of course. Like it’s possible to have peace on earth.

People always ask me: Are you more of an Iraqi or a Portuguese? I say I don’t know. I still have the hot blood, the Arabic spices and a bit of belly dance in my veins. But I don’t agree with the oppression in the middle east. Nonetheless, both, I reply.

Aveiro is my home now. It’s where I feel safe. It’s where I got my friends, my family, my loved ones. But I’m still wandering and wondering where life will take me.

“Found on Parallel Roads”

– a story of Nastya

Life doesn't always go the way you plan. I had the career of my dreams, I loved the city where I lived in, I had plenty of friends, a cultural and social life, earned enough to live as I wanted and travelled a lot. But, due to unexpected life twists, I ended up staying in Aveiro.

I never dreamed of living abroad, I love my motherland. Which explains why when I first arrived for a European Voluntary Service, I didn’t see Portugal as my home, neither Aveiro as my hometown. But after 10 years here, I developed a special connection with Portugal. I studied here, started a family here and even co-founded Agora Aveiro. Portugal became my second motherland.

I find that the Portuguese have plenty of similarities with Ukrainians, still, my roots have remained the same. I still feel homesick. I have a family and two kids here, but Kyiv is the place where I feel like myself again, even though life is not easy there at the moment. I would love to be able to live in both Ukraine and Portugal. It’s difficult to say what I miss exactly. Probably the “spirit” and atmosphere of the town, the people, and cultural life, meaningful conversations, the busy routine and my family.

The only way I managed to find to “fight saudades” is to go back with more frequency, invite my parents as many times as I can, and speak Ukrainian with my children. I read Ukrainian literature, watch movies and listen to music, the recent war gave rise to so many great books, fantastic authors and filmmakers.

I felt welcomed in Aveiro since the beginning, the Portuguese people are one of the best people to meet. Very caring and respectful. I especially felt that when I had to make a presentation in front of Portuguese kids at that time when I could barely say a word in their language. The kids were very kind and curious about my personality. Even when the Aveirenses don’t understand you, they still do their best to help you.

I do feel a local in Aveiro. I know all the roads, multiple shortcuts, local restaurants and other places where only the Portuguese go. I speak Portuguese and can easily take care of any issue without the support of a local, and I have friends of my own to have those “deep conversations” with. At the moment, I am equally local in both cities. I promote Aveiro within my friends with as much care as I do Kyiv. So yes, I definitely have a special place for Aveiro in my heart.

“The Sleepless Heart”

– a story of Nataša

Today, 11 years after I moved to Aveiro, I feel more local here than in the city where I was born, in the country which was then called Yugoslavia.

I witnessed a few wars and other unfortunate events in my country, but I never thought I would be living abroad for a long time. Primarily because I loved my job back home, I lived well, travelled a lot, and was happy.

I moved to Portugal because I wanted to, not because I had to. And for the best reason ever, I found my love here.

For me, to become fully involved in the life of the city, it was never enough just to “exist” here. I felt a need to become an active member of the community and realised there was actually no institution where I could fulfil this wish completely. This is why, together with a few friends, I co-founded Agora Aveiro, back in 2010.

Working at Agora Aveiro gave me the chance to not only promote important values and develop meaningful projects but to also meet incredible people and get to know my new hometown very well, not just superficially. It has also been giving me many opportunities to travel. And I love that, but I always feel good coming back home.

Seven years ago, I officially became “Portuguesa” when I got my Portuguese passport. The truth is, I don’t feel particularly Portuguese, but I don’t feel Serbian either. There are things I love about both places, but the feeling of national belonging is something that I lost the moment I realised how easily a country can change its name, borders, flag or ideology. I feel like a global citizen, and I feel like a local in a few different places around Europe.

I like the most that Aveiro has many things like festivals and cultural events happening all the time. In Serbia, a city of the size of Aveiro most usually is a ghost city, there are no young people living there, no innovative business’, few cultural events. Also, I love the Ocean. Even after a decade, it still amazes me. When I go to Costa Nova, the moment I step on the sand, it feels like the first time I saw it, in 2007.

Aveiro is my hometown now, and even if I don’t stay here forever, it will always be a significant mark on my personal map. Although at times I miss the big city vibe, I deal with it by travelling to Belgrade and other capitals quite often. And then, after a few days or weeks of mesmerising confusion, it’s actually good to go back to this cosy harbour.

“Home Away from Home”

– a story of Valentina

I always knew that I wanted to travel and experience life in other countries, and whenever I had the chance, I would study outside Italy.

I married a man very open to change. Our country didn't offer us much in terms of economic stability, so we both wanted to leave. My husband got offered a position as an accompanying musician at the University, and I came with him. I guess you can say that we are economic migrants, but at the end of the day, it was love that brought me to Aveiro. Even though I studied Lusophone and Hispano-American Literature and Intercultural Translation in Rome, I had never heard of Aveiro. Today, it's a city I learned to get to know and appreciate.

It wasn't too difficult to get here, because I'm a European Union citizen, I didn't have to go through much red tape. I haven't really got negative feedback for being Italian. On the contrary, it seems that everyone likes Italy, more than the Italians themselves. Everyone asks me if I enjoy living here and if I prefer Portugal or Italy better. Despite this, I won't lie, it was difficult.

The first year was hard. The locals are great, but there’s something unique about not being from here that only non-locals experience and can truly understand. Foreigners end up helping each other a lot, maybe some initiatives for us to meet and share experiences would make it easier. My husband had been living alone here for a few months, so we had to find a new place where we could all live. We spent so much time looking. I had an 11-month-old son that I needed to care for, I had no other family nor friends. This made it really easy for me to find Aveiro to be a depressing place.

We bought two bikes and used them to explore the neighbourhood. It’s a great way to take in the sights, from the university to the historic buildings. We use them to go everywhere.

Crises are part of everyone's life, there are always challenges and obstacles to overcome. Case and point, I had a bicycle accident and broke a wrist. Something that brought me so much joy was also the reason I could no longer do all the things I could so easily do before. That made me sad and depressed. But you overcome it.

I decided to continue my music studies by getting a master’s degree in music. It was at the University of Aveiro that I managed to make friends. Nowadays, I teach Italian classes there while I’m finishing a post-graduation in Community and Artistic Practices. I was studying medicine before turning to the arts. My father was very sick, which by itself is something that weighs on you, but to also have to face it at school proved to be too much. I needed a break. Time has passed, but my curiosity never really went away, so I'm pursuing a master's degree in Applied Biology, where I get to explore and combine art and science.

I miss my mother. I wish my son could spend time with her. I also miss some very dear friends and the theatrical labs I used to be part of. I still go back to Italy to perform with some of them, but it's not really the same. But I have the friends I made here and the places that became part of my daily life. Family is my home. My husband and son are here, so Aveiro is my home.

“Beyond Words”

– a story of Valéria

Leaving Mexico was a bittersweet experience. I knew it was the end of an era, but at the same time, I couldn't fully grasp how huge a decision I was making. Nevertheless, leaving was a decision I made on my own. Thankfully, I was not fleeing. I was excited about the new experiences and adventures that awaited me.

I'm not a static person, I don’t really like staying in a single spot. I had lived in Leiria for 2 years, but it was only in 2016, when I came to Aveiro, that I finally felt I was where I belonged. I fell in love with Aveiro right away.

I underestimated how challenging it would, because I had a good sense of the language, being a native Spanish speaker, I thought it would be easy to integrate the community when I first arrived in Portugal.

In the beginning, I had a hard time understanding greetings. In Mexico, we kiss once at hello, one kiss goodbye, simple! In Portugal, two kisses at hello for everyone but also not always; two kisses to say goodbye but only sometimes. It was so confusing! Now I am more relaxed about the whole thing, so it just flows.

My husband tried to include me in his family, but I wanted a group of my own. It wasn’t until I found SPEAK* that I felt I had found a place for me in this new country. I met people there that were in the same situation as me, going through the same adaptation process, so we all share our doubts and fears. I now know the importance of projects like this. That’s why, when I moved to Aveiro, I decided to bring the program with me and founded SPEAK Aveiro. I want to help those that are going through the same thing I went through.

Although small, Aveiro is a multicultural city. And one of the reasons I love it is because there is a wide variety of nationalities sharing the same space. Some are just passing-by, others are here for short periods, but each one contributes to make Aveiro a better place for everyone. I like that I feel neither more nor less welcome than the other citizens. I believe that being a migrant here is easier. People are friendly and so used to foreigners that they hardly make a big deal out of it.

I find “aveirenses” patient and kind towards the newcomers, even if they should be more willing to step out of their comfort zone a little bit. See what foreigners might want to share with you, be curious about the other’s journey and learn about their cultures. This small detail can make a deep and meaningful impact on someone who is far away from home.

I crave Mexican food and the fabulous weather from time to time, but I miss most the people closest to my heart. I miss the feeling you get when you are among the people that have known you all your life, so you can be you without having to explain yourself. Despite the distance, I keep a close relationship with the people I love, and I know that, whenever I am with them again, it will feel as if no time has passed. It will never be the same as really being there, but it makes those face-to-face moments that much more special.

Part of me fears that I might even feel a little bit lost whenever I go back to my city in Mexico, which is way bigger than Aveiro. I believe I will get to know this city even better than Querétaro. I do walking tours of the city that begin at Ponte do Botirão or “Ponte do Laço”, if I had to, I would say that’s my favourite place. It’s where I began to get to know the city better. And the more I know, the more I love Aveiro. I feel 100% like a local in Aveiro. I am so happy to realize that.

Beira-Mar

Cagaréus and Ceboleiros

Chapel of S. Bartolomeu

The Hanging of Clothes

Walls of Aveiro

S. Gonçalinho

Rosa Gadanho

To know is to transform

Manuel Barbosa

The inextinguishable blaze

Margarida Gonçalves

Reading between the lines of silence

João Henriques

To listen against the indifference

Ondina Pereira

A heart that beats without prejudice

Rui Figueiredo

The serenity of a night light

Micaela Oliveira

The weight of a friendly shoulder

Centro Social Paroquial da Vera Cruz

Calm but steady resilience

AMA - AMigos do Abrigo Quintã do Loureiro

A group of enthusiastic volunteers who help
four-legged fluffy friends who got lost or were abandoned

Associação BioLiving

The nature is of everyone and for everyone

Centro Social e Paroquial de Angeja

Contributing to well-being

Mon Na Mon

Solidarity and multiculturalism, hand in hand

Florinhas do Vouga

A symbol of solidarity in Aveiro

Beira-Mar

Cagaréus and Ceboleiros

Chapel of S. Bartolomeu

The Hanging of Clothes

Walls of Aveiro

S. Gonçalinho

Rosa Gadanho

To know is to transform

Manuel Barbosa

The inextinguishable blaze

Margarida Gonçalves

Reading between the lines of silence

João Henriques

To listen against the indifference

Ondina Pereira

A heart that beats without prejudice

Rui Figueiredo

The serenity of a night light

Micaela Oliveira

The weight of a friendly shoulder

Centro Social Paroquial da Vera Cruz

Calm but steady resilience

AMA - AMigos do Abrigo Quintã do Loureiro

A group of enthusiastic volunteers who help four-legged fluffy friends who got lost or were abandoned

Associação BioLiving

The nature is of everyone and for everyone

Centro Social e Paroquial de Angeja

Contributing to well-being

Mon Na Mon

Solidarity and multiculturalism, hand in hand

Florinhas do Vouga

A symbol of solidarity in Aveiro

A group of enthusiastic volunteers who help
four-legged fluffy friends who got lost or were abandoned